You might think of Papua New Guinea's highlands as a rugged, inaccessible wilderness, but what if this remote landscape holds secrets of resilience, culture, and hidden beauty that many overlook? And here's where it gets particularly interesting: despite being one of the country's most impoverished and volatile regions, certain areas are redefining what travel can mean in such challenging environments.
Nestled amidst the lush, rolling hills of Papua New Guinea’s highlands lies Ambua Lodge, a picture-perfect retreat set against circumstances many would consider discouraging. This region—Hela province—long troubled by tribal conflicts and economic hardships—is now seeing efforts to forge a new path forward. The lodge is not just a place to stay; it is an inspiring symbol of hope and progress. Over the past four decades, the hotel has become a beacon of stability, attracting visitors from all corners of the world. The leadership of Papua New Guinea recognizes its importance and actively encourages more tourism to this hard-to-reach destination.
In December, Prime Minister James Marape paid a visit to Ambua Lodge to celebrate its legacy of safe and successful investment, despite the historical hurdles. He urged fellow citizens and prospective investors—both local and international—not to get disheartened by negative perceptions surrounding the area. His message emphasizes resilience and the potential for growth amid adversity.
According to Jayesh Naduvil of Trans Niugini Tours, the company managing Ambua Lodge, concerns about safety are largely unfounded for visitors. Many come specifically for the vibrant Huli Wigmen, as well as birdwatching and exploring nature trails. The lodge itself features charming thatched-roof rooms overlooking verdant valleys, creating an authentic and immersive experience.
Naduvil assures that no guest has faced any issues related to law and order at the lodge. This is because the guides and drivers—who are from the local communities—are well aware of any potential risks and steer clear of problematic areas. This community-based approach has been crucial in maintaining safety and fostering trust.
While tribal conflicts do occur sporadically in parts of Papua New Guinea, recent years have seen an alarming increase in deadly clashes within the highlands, including provinces like Enga and Hela. The violence is worsened by the availability of more sophisticated weapons, which have drastically altered the scale and severity of these conflicts.
Beyond Ambua, Trans Niugini also oversees Rondon Ridge in the Western Highlands, a luxurious lodge that maintains close ties with the Melpa tribe. This tribe retains a strong connection to their ancestral lands and cultural practices, which have been passed down for thousands of years. Interestingly, in recent times, they've also embraced tourism as a way to generate income. Naduvil notes that the Melpa community recognized the benefits of hospitality from observing similar successes elsewhere, leading them to support the development of a tourist lodge in their area.
Tourism in Papua New Guinea is on a slow but promising rise. Data from the Pacific Tourism Organisation indicates a 9.3% increase in international visitors during the first half of 2025. Most arrivals are from Australia—comprising 39%—followed by Asian countries at 35%. This growth underscores the industry’s potential, which the country's tourism minister, Belden Namah, describes as a 'sleeping giant.' Namah advocates for increased investment and support, calling tourism a 'pot of gold' hidden in the country’s landscape, waiting to be unlocked.
And this is the part most people miss—there’s a rich, authentic culture waiting to be discovered in these highlands, offering travelers more than just scenic views.
Approximately 250 kilometers east of Hela province, another remarkable destination exists—Mount Wilhelm, the highest peak in Papua New Guinea. This region, closer to the coast, experiences less tribal conflict but grapples with its share of violence and crime, which typical travelers should be aware of.
In this area, Betty’s Place provides a cozy refuge for adventurers aiming to conquer Mount Wilhelm. Originally a vegetable farm established by Betty and her Australian husband Kenneth Higgins in the late 1980s, the site evolved into a guesthouse after mountain climbers seeking accommodation stopped by. Turning the property into a hotel was no small feat—there was no running water, electricity, or roads at the time. Despite these hurdles, Betty’s Place now functions as a vital hub for climbers and explorers.
Today, Ruth Higgins, Betty’s daughter, manages the lodge, making use of generators and satellite Wi-Fi to sustain operations. Solar power is used but only for LED lighting, as the technology isn’t yet reliable enough to power everything sustainably. Visitors here deeply experience Melanesian culture—an enduring way of life rooted in the land, spirits, and traditional practices. Ruth emphasizes their focus on promoting authentic cultural experiences, showcasing endemic orchids and bird species unique to the highlands.
Travelers from across the globe have been enchanted by this area. For example, Robert Mads Anderson from the United States visited in July and described the lodge as a 'magical place amid vast wilderness,' praising the welcoming atmosphere, fresh local trout, and the stunning scenery.
Higgins notes that local safety has improved; the village around Betty’s Place is generally peaceful, and residents benefit economically from guiding tourists. However, she underscores the need for greater support from PNG authorities—particularly in ensuring consistent utilities like electricity and water—so that tourism can thrive with fewer logistical challenges.
Ruth passionately advocates for preservation and sustainable tourism, emphasizing that their goal is to showcase the land’s beauty and cultural richness while protecting it for future generations. The entire community shares this vision, seeing tourism as a vital tool for economic development and cultural preservation.
Would you brave the challenges of such remote places for a chance to see their untouched beauty and rich traditions? Or do the risks outweigh the rewards? Let’s start a conversation—share your thoughts below!
