When it comes to winter getaways in Portugal, the Algarve often steals the spotlight, but there’s a hidden gem in the mountains that’s worth every bit of your attention. Nestled in the heart of the Serra da Estrela, this region offers a winter escape like no other. Imagine trekking through snow-covered landscapes, guided by an expert who makes navigating the elements look effortless. That’s exactly what I experienced with João Pedro Sousa, whose lean frame and steady determination set the tone for an adventure I’ll never forget. But here’s where it gets intriguing: this isn’t just about snow and slopes—it’s about discovering a Portugal that feels worlds away from its coastal counterpart.
As we ventured through the high slopes, João Pedro paused to scan the white ridgeline, searching for mariolas—small cairns of rocks fused by ice that mark the trail. ‘The landscape changes every day,’ he explained, ‘so you have to learn how to read it afresh.’ And this is the part most people miss: in winter, nature here becomes a true artist, painting the mountains with a beauty that’s both raw and refined. I followed in his footsteps, my snowshoes clumsily attached to my boots, feeling the powder beneath me as we made our way to a quartzite outcrop. The view was breathtaking—below us lay Manteigas, a terracotta-roofed town cradled in the Zêzere valley, and ahead, the towering peak of Torre, mainland Portugal’s highest point.
But what makes this place truly special is its blend of natural wonder and human history. Recognized by UNESCO as a global geopark in 2020, Serra da Estrela boasts remarkable biodiversity and geology. Yet, it’s also a region where the past is deeply intertwined with the present. Take Casa das Penhas Douradas, for example—a design-led hotel inspired by Alpine lodges but rooted in local tradition. Originally a 100-year-old sanatorium, it now offers 17 birch-panelled rooms with vast sliding windows that invite the mountain air inside. The hotel’s gallery of sepia photographs tells the story of the 1881 Lisbon Geographic Society expedition, which sought a cure for tuberculosis in this very spot. ‘For a time, this was Portugal’s answer to Swiss health resorts like St Moritz or Davos,’ João Pedro shared over apple cake and carqueja tea. The surrounding chalets, with their steep roofs and stone construction, further blend northern European charm with Lusitanian mountain architecture.
During my stay, a snowstorm turned the Serra into a violently shaken snow globe, forcing me indoors. But this wasn’t a setback—it was an opportunity. I alternated between the sauna and the bath-temperature swimming pool, indulged in a sports massage, and savored three-course meals featuring the region’s famous Iberian pork. Afternoons were spent with a glass of port and a mountaineering book from the library, decorated with antique skiing paraphernalia. The highlight? A late-night soak in the Nordic-style wooden hot tub, under a sky filled with stars and spindrift.
And this is where it gets controversial: while the hotel’s founders have undoubtedly elevated local tourism, their most significant impact might be their role in reviving a dying craft—burel fabric. Made from bordaleira sheep’s wool, this thick, water-resistant weave has been used for shepherds’ capes since the Middle Ages. Owner Isabel Costa fell in love with the material while designing the hotel’s upholstery and decided to save the last remaining textile mill in Manteigas. In 2010, the Burel Factory reopened with a modern twist, introducing vibrant colors and new applications like wall art and furniture coverings. This revival hasn’t just preserved a craft—it’s rewoven the fabric of local life. Young people are staying, jobs are expanding, and even the local school has reopened. Burel shops now grace Lisbon and Porto’s upscale streets, popularizing a native art form that was once overlooked.
To truly immerse yourself in Manteigas’ charm, a stay at Casa das Obras is a must. This time-warp mansion, owned by the Ribeiro de Portugal family since the late 18th century, exudes history. Oil paintings of stern ancestors line the stone staircase, while the tapestried billiards room and antique-filled breakfast room transport you to another era. Though the bedrooms are modest, the central location and blooming camellia garden make it a perfect base for exploring.
Manteigas itself is small, but its beauty is undeniable. Cobbled streets, snow-dusted churches, and dramatic valleys create a storybook setting. While summer brings hikers and adrenaline seekers, winter invites you to slow down. Breathe in the crisp air, savor hearty cuisine, and let the mountains work their magic—when the weather allows.
Here’s a thought-provoking question for you: In a world where coastal destinations dominate travel trends, could mountain retreats like Serra da Estrela redefine how we experience Portugal? Let me know your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear if you’d trade the beach for the peaks.
